2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. I'm planning to stay in Vieste for two nights. Plus, the canal has daily traffic, but since it's a neighborhood, not a tourist attraction, it's quieter at night. 07/16/12 03:24 PM. Entire cities made great and desperate deals with God in hopes that he'd spare them from the dreaded disease. That tower crumbled into a pile of bricks in 1902, a thousand years after it was built. The city's main thoroughfare is busy with traffic. Beat the crowds and enjoy the crisp morning air at 9:00 or the cool evening breeze at 18:00 (but closes earlier in winter, tel. 10:00 Explore St. Mark's Square (best with our guidebooks' self-guided tour, or with the audio-tour version). I'd like to help dissipate your concerns about wet luggage on the vaporetto. Huntsville, AL, USA. The train is one of the easiest and most convenient ways to travel around Italy, however this does not mean you have to do it all by train. Chatting with Delphine Prigent, I was reminded that conscientious, hands-on managers elevate a nice hotel to the top tier. Arriving late, I found my way to the charming eight-room B&B, tucked right in the heart of the most bustling stretch of the Ribeira waterfront. Carol's recommendation of San Cassiano is a good one--I spent 10 nights there in October in one of their single rooms. I would say it is worth paying extra, though, to be in Venice "City Center.". Venice's sleek and graceful gondolas are a symbol of the city. Alessandro: This, this one they are cooked in the oven. Maybe not Dutch-steep, but steep enough to get your attention. (Full disclosure: While many travel bloggers do sponsored posts, we at Rick Steves Europe are never paid for our endorsements. Thank you Jane!!! The city's ceremonial front door was unfortified and faced the sea. Loved Seville. There's no place like it. Elegant and comfortable demonstrating obvious respect for the location and setting. Now it hosts occasional chamber music concerts and gives guests an outrageously classy place to relax. Hopper18, really? Palaces like these remind us that Venetian merchants amassed lots of capital. Blending contemporary with Tuscan traditional the storage in the room was smart and varied, the shower and bathroom were spacious and beautifully appointed, the seating was comfortable, the bed was comfortably medium soft with crisp linens, the electric outlets and light switches were perfectly placed. While these are copies, the originals are inside. After going over the big bridge in front of the train station, there were 4 more small canal bridges to go up and over during the walk. Agree. I recommend Rick's suggested Locanda Casa Querini. The historical site seeing/walking tour of Pienza was informative and fun. I had the greatest massage of my life from Indian Master Dipu that he stretched out over a two day period. Yeah. Bridge of Sighs Famous enclosed bridge, part of Doge's Palace, near St. Mark's Square. Visiting here, many feel that they're experiencing beauty, people, and even life itself at a more intense level. While still one of Europe's most romantic and distinctive destinations, globalization and modern life are changing Venice for better or worse. 14:00 Tour the Correr Museum (ticket purchased here includes Doge's Palace). Now please dont tell anyone about this lovely place because we dont want to have difficulty getting a room there next year! And its handy to the sites you would want to see. So much to see, so little time. Tintoretto's Triumph of Venice shows the city always represented blond and virtuous in heaven among the Greek gods, receiving the wealth of the sea. In Alba, we had a fantastic stay at La Terrazza sulle Torri . For an ear-shattering experience, be here at the top of the hour. He organizes two-hour Venetian pub tours (better to book by email than by phone). Its domes and elaborate exterior remind us of Venice's close ties with the Greek, Byzantine, and Muslim worlds. These work like city buses except that they never get a flat, the stops are docks, and if you get off between stops, you'll drown. St. Mark's Square Venice's grand main square. www.pensioneguerrato.it. Very good location. Nice touches such as the flowers, fruit platter, designer pillows, books, and guidebooks specifically about the villa and surrounding areas felt like home away from home. On a gondola, you glide through your own private Venice far from the hubbub of modern tourism. Key considerations: Ninety percent of tourists congregate in a very narrow zone in the center. On a regular vaporetto, which does not go to and from the airport, your bags would be inside with you, though there is not much room. My wife wants to return. Isabella morriciani had prepared a table full of goodies including their wine for us. The style? What is the Best Way to Get Around Italy? Later the Venetians grabbed them, only to have Napoleon swipe them to decorate an arch in Paris. Life is good. While tourism continues to keep Venice afloat, fewer overnight guests and dinner-time restaurant customers mean that the tourist trade is no longer as lucrative for the people living in the heart of the city. With a good regional wine in a rustic setting, you can eat cheaply and make new friends or enjoy old ones. Just got back from Venice - we stayed at the Al Ponte Mocenigo hotel and really liked the location. Slip it over the handle and suitcase if it will be out in wet weather for any length of time. The car-free streets suddenly make walkers feel big, important, and liberated. It seems there aren't even lovers on gondolas anymore. Recently on a return visit, I asked whether that has continued. And now Isabella has built her dream hotel, a country-classy splurge resort called La Moscadella. The Vaporetto is a 5 minute easy walk. When we reserved our stay at La Moscadella we had our first glimpse into the Isabella Experiencefriendly, accomodating and service oriented. I like Dorsoduro neighborhood because it's a bit off the beaten path and has some pretty nice piazzas. But, with their natural lagoon defenses, Venetian palazzos could be sumptuous rather than fortified. Hey Cameron, 16:00 Tour the Accademia museum (only if you're an art lover), then stroll across the Accademia Bridge and back to St. Mark's Square. As Venetian nobles traded their way into fabulous wealth, they built luxurious palaces like this one, which has been owned by the Pisani family for nearly 400 years. Over the high altar, glowing red and gold like a stained-glass window, Titian's Assumption of the Virgin Mary sets the tone of exuberant beauty found in this church. Can't afford a private gondola? Glorious paintings throughout the palace reminded Venetians of their heritage and divinely ordained greatness. Here, Bellini places them in a physical setting so beautiful it creates its own mood of serene holiness. The luggage on those is held up top on an outside deck, and the people are stowed in a lower cabin , actually partly below water level with no view. Explore Europe Italy Venice Gondolas and Church of San Giorgio Maggiore Share Venice Engineers love Venice a completely man-made environment rising from the sea, with no visible means of support. Hotel was small and nice, with large rooms and bathrooms at very reasonable prices. I would stay at either again. Their prize booty was four bronze horses, placed in the center of the facade. They moved into a new location closeby, and the rooms are huge. And she supported young artists, helping turn a struggling Jackson Pollock with his Abstract Expressionism into a celebrity. Along with a powerful collection of weapons state of the art in its day it comes with some fun curiosities: tiny crossbows, thumbscrews, and a particularly effective chastity belt. Zoltn even restored a 19th-century ballroom, which was tucked away unnoticed behind the reception desk for years. Several upper-level management positions are now occupied by receptionists I knew back when I was a budding guidebook researcher and they worked the night shift at the front desk, 15 years ago. 15:30 Tour St. Mark's Basilica (closes at 17:00 in summer, at 16:00 in winter; best with a self-guided tour, available in our guidebooks and as an audio tour). Most people do not want to waste valuable time with a commute from Mestre (mainland) or Lido or Murano or whatever island you may be referring to. Everyone is too busy reading their phones or looking into their cameras. (How many times have you found the only available plug all the way across the room from the bed?). So much more fun! Not only do I sleep in hotels I spend hours each day visiting and evaluating accommodations for our guidebooks. Currently you have JavaScript disabled. Rialto Bridge Distinctive bridge spanning the Grand Canal, with a market nearby. And individual USB charging ports were stationed right next to each nightstand. We had two meals, lunch and dinner, at the hotel and both were excellent. If you see a wedding party posing in front of a famous sight, it's most likely the family of a big shot from Russia or China. Check Booking.com and vrbo.com for additional hotel or apartment options. Alessandro's tours include sampling cicchetti with wines at three different bacari. Yes, please explain where you got the idea that your bags might get wet. Not very touristic, easy to get to from the Ca Rezzonico vaporetto stop. Neither hotel was right next to St. Mark's which is what I want. His travel philosophy encourages people to explore less-touristy areas of destinations and to become immersed in the local people's way of life. We stayed on the top floor and felt like we were in Mary Poppins Parisian Getaway. Carmen offered me a warm welcome and an efficient orientation before showing me to a tight but cheery and well-appointed room with breathtaking views over the busy Douro River. Our all time favorite European romantic B&B experience was a Homeaway property in Capannori, Lucca, in the rolling hills of Tuscany, Italy. Princess Pupule, the trip is over the summer pre cruise out of Ravenna. That's why they maintain a refreshing alpine-feel in this delightful little corner of Venice. Dori shared with us the history of the building and the challenges of renovating the facility and we appreciated the villa all the more. We have been to Venice 3 different times, one of which was pre Village Italy tour. When you cross a bridge, look both ways you may be hit with a lovely view. 15363 posts. You might also want to watch some you tube videos to see what it is like. This May, I was one of the hotels first-ever guestsand I promise you, Ill be back. With more time, they add some "second-rate" destinations: Pisa, Assisi, Siena, Milan, and so on. Thanks for joining us. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. Ride the elevator 325 feet to the top of the bell tower for the best view in Venice (especially at sunset). we have stayed in a studio apt near san toma stop (san polo), cannareggio in a 2 bedroom apt near san marcuola casino stop and behind the grand carlton hotel on the grand canal. We took so much of your advice on that trip finding the gems of tapestries at the Cluny Museum, gorging ourselves at (now closed) Casa de Sergio, getting to the Orsay early and heading upstairs to have the Van Goghs all to ourselves! The Republic's fortified shipyard, with 3,000 workers using an early form of assembly-line production and standardized parts, it could produce one warship a day. Alessandro: That's good! Glide in a gondola through quiet canals while music echoes across the water. But that Hotel was special because it was our gateway to what has become 15 years of following your great travel advice throughout Europe! 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | There've been several threads lately that include discussions of hotels in Venice. Vernon, Canada. The room wasnt huge, but the space was designed so smartly that once I unpacked, I never felt crowded. (All pastries made in house). They also had a good breakfast. In many ways, Venice seems built for romantics. Liked the small hotel, the employees and the owner! Highly recommend. Alessandro: With your finger, with your wine, yeah. loved all 3 places and was quiet. Throughout our stay we were greeted with smiles. According to the romantic legend, gazing out the window, prisoners tried to enjoy their last view of Venetian beauty, sighedand were taken to their cell. Built on a hundred islands with wealth from trade with the East, its exotic-looking palaces are laced together by sun-speckled canals. In Tuscany, just outside of Pienza, Isabella and Carlo Moricciani run the best agriturismo Ive experienced Cretaiole. As is the case with many small B&Bs in big buildings, I had to climb up several stories through a dingy, echoey stairwell. Breakfast is eaten communally with other guests, and you can meet and talk with an international array of guests. The Christian symbolism is unfamiliar to Western eyes, done in the style of Byzantine icons and even Islamic designs. In Copenhagen, our stay at the Nimb overlooking the Tivoli Gardens is a gorgeous hotel in a perfect location. Just left there yesterday! Vieste is a beautiful city, and well worth a visit! Never has happened to us on any of our Two thumbs up for Hotel Amadeus in Seville. 4 9 Rick Steves's recommendation was right. Feeling sympathetic that his guests couldnt always find a decent concert here in the birthplace of Chopin, Jarek converted his drawing room into a small concert hall, hosting performances every night at 7:30. Punta della Dogana Museum of contemporary art. Vaporetto stop close by and it's easy walking to/from the train station with luggage. (18:44), Salvatore Settis' "If Venice Dies" The hotel raves below are all 100% unsolicitedI just geek out on awesome accommodations. Rick: That's a good one! For a break from sightseeing and a fun meal explore the back lanes, and pop into a bar serving cicchetti that's the uniquely Venetian hors d'oeuvres. (28:59), London Itinerary Advice (shocking, I know). Lynette, RS tours often use different Hotels in each city, depending on availability for a group. A tower has stood here, like an exclamation point, proclaiming the power and greatness of the Venetian Empire, for 1,200 years. It's about a 10 minute walk from the train station and a couple minutes' walk to the main square. The church is covered with glass and gold mosaics. While there are a number of luxurious big hotels in town, my favorites are the smaller, family-run ones which combine historic character, a warm and friendly welcome, and plenty of travel tips. Maximize your evening magic, and avoid the midday crowds around St. Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace. Engineers love Venice a completely man-made environment rising from the sea, with no visible means of support. The last time I was in Italy I couldn't turn around without hitting something. With astonishing foresight, she assembled a Who's Who of her generation's greatest art. Frari Church Franciscan church featuring Renaissance masters. ALL of the other places I tried are totally booked for our dates in October already; the Hotel Portnuovo is closed by then! The culinary team is exceptional, the food service staff are beyond amazing and the setting for breakfast and dinner with the ambiance and view is outstanding. Venice is famous for its tiny hotel rooms, unless you take an upgraded category. Gondolas are moored everywhere. The great Venetian rogue Casanova did time here. Doogie, you might try using the search feature at the top of the screen. Friends also stayed at Hotel Arlecchino, and liked it. Its formidable navy saw lots of action. If you pause anywhere in Venice and simply observe, you'll witness the one-of-a-kind wonder of this forever-unique city on the lagoon. While its a big Best Western, it still has a personal touch. Carmel, CA, USA. My guidebooks outline a stop-by-stop tour, as does my free audio tour of the canal. Venice has what's considered one of the highest concentrations of art anywhere in the world. hey hey doogie They do have a private dock in case you want to take a water taxi to avoid hauling your luggage on the vaporetti. You can see Venice's most picturesque gondola workshop (from the outside; it's not open to the public) in the Accademia neighborhood. BUDGET: Hotel Serenissima. They were a huge concern. You can send me a private msg if you want more details. Torcello Near-deserted island with old church, bell tower, and museum. You can walk across it, from head to tail, in about an hour. This boutique hotel is located very close to St. Mark's Square. Day 1: Arrive in Rome Day 2: Rome Day 3: Florence Day 4: Florence Day 5: Tuscany Day Trip Day 6: Cinque Terre Day 7: Cinque Terre Day 8: Venice Day 9: Venice Day 10: Fly home Rome, Florence, Cinque Terre & Venice | 10 Days in Italy Itinerary (map adapted from Google) IMPORTANT! A couple of years ago we took the Alilaguna into Venice from the airport, and the driver was a "cowboy" who drove and swerved very fast , causing a huge spray to come over all the luggage. Staying here, you feel completely enveloped by the bustle of one of Europes great walled cities, yet a world apart. Every morning, she could sit here on her terrace, sipping her coffee, taking in the Grand Canal, living the Venetian dream. I found the Hotel to be very comfortable, and the staff were great. Side-trip to Padua (3050 minutes away by train). On a recent trip to film two television shows and research my guidebook, the city felt different. We stayed here in Venice and loved it. The golden archangel Gabriel at the top always faces into the wind. Inside Rick Steves Veniceyou'll find: Comprehensive coverage for spending a week or moreexploring Venice And first-time visitors are often stirred deeply, awaking from their ordinary lives to a fantasy world unlike anything they've ever experienced before. We stayed here http://veniceapartmentrentals.com/ in an apartment with a view on a nice canal. The grand church of St. Mark's was built in a distinctly Eastern style. The Pala d'Oro, or Golden Altarpiece, is a medieval masterpiece. Today many former palazzos survive as hotels. We started staying at K&T Boardinghouse almost 20 years ago, as that is where Rick Steve's stayed. Calle drio la Scimia 240/a Rialto, 30125 Venice Italy. I don't want to stay in an area that is very "touristy". what do you mean by "good hotel" , stars (*) mean amenities that hotel has not how good the hotel is. 15:00 Boat to Torcello, tour church, back to Burano. Its main drag the Grand Canal starts at the fish's mouth and winds through the center. In so many ways, when you get up early and stay out late, you enjoy a different, and it seems more real, Venice. We were traveling light (backpacks and 1 carry-on size rolling bag) and didn't mind a little 'adventure' so we scoped out a route ahead of time (very important!) Then, after a quick glide down this canal, the vessel was completely outfitted and ready to bolster Venetian dominance of the Mediterranean. At Caff Florian, the most venerable caf on St. Mark's Square, the manager lamented how, in the last decade, the caf's elegance has been trampled with poorly dressed tourists (which describes me fairly well, I must admit). I found a spot right across from the train station that's near a church. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. 18:00 Commence pub crawl for dinner (consider taking Alessandro's Classic Venice Bars Tour). What's important is the location, that it's in a nice area. What Makes a Good Guidebooka Good Guidebook. Im also big on location. Mark looking pretty grumpy after the long voyage became the city's patron saint, and his symbol, the winged lion, became the symbol of Venice. Alessandro: This is cicchettoa little thing that you grab with the hand; has to be finger food. 14:00 Tour Ca' Rezzonico (Museum of 18th-Century Venice, closed Tue). Surveying the domes and towers of the city's skyline, it's amazing to think that all this sits on a foundation of pilingsmillions of tree trunks driven deep into the clay. So, in 828, Venetian merchants smuggled Mark's remains out of Egypt and into the church shown here as it looked in the 13th century. (If you think of this tour as a light dinner with a local friend, it's a particularly good value.). Before my visit, I had asked the co-author of our Rick Steves Paris guidebook, Steve Smith, if he had any suggestions. There were 120 doges over 1,100 years. The tourist thoroughfares, such as the lanes between St. Mark's Square and the Rialto Bridge, were as crowded as ever, if not moreso, but in the evening, all that bustle was completely gone. Rick: So this is representative of what Francisco found in the market good this morning. Wait till early evening, when the crowds are gone, and the light is right. Venice is small. Another key to a great hotel is great management.